Scotland 
   June, 2023

This summer we led a two part tour with Scotland as the second half. On a bright Saturday morning we crossed over from Ireland aboard a Stena Line ferry and admired the green hills awaiting us as they sloped down to the water’s edge. Soon we were met at the harbor by our Scottish guide Stephen whose rich brogue had us thinking of Sean Connery. More King James than James Bond he nevertheless revealed some of the secrets of the shire. 

 

Our first stop was the home and museum of Robert Burns. ‘Robby’ as he is nationally known, has become a cult figure across all levels of Scottish society. His poetry and jocularity are best summed up in his pean to the humble dish called Haggis. Google it! 

 

The next morning we made tracks to Glasgow further up the coast. Scotland is a Presbyterian country that reveres its founder John Knox. Statues and memorials to this bearded reformer who had the air of an Old Testament Prophet are numerous still throughout the country. Our hotel was just a stones throw from the enormous Glasgow Cathedral where Knox often preached. Being midsummer season we arose early and walked to the cathedral and the adjacent Necropolis. This cemetery is situated high above the church and towers eerily over the city. There was a gothic glow as the sun burned off the morning mist. 

 

There are hundreds of distilleries nestled in the glens and valleys of Scotland. We were able to visit the Glengoyne Distilery tucked into a charming Highland valley. We were met by the affable host, Jack who led us to the white washed still-house. Once inside we were welcomed by the malty sweet aroma of fermenting barley. Jack explained the process from start to finish with justifiable pride. But, he said, don’t take my word for it, the proof is in the tasting! And tasing we did. In fine snifter glasses each of us sampled a 10 year and a 15 year single malt of their making. Its caramel color softened the biting notes of its taste.

 

Duly fortified we were off to see the battlements of the historic Stirling Castle. Sitting high atop a hill this castle is the equivalent of our Gettysburg. So much of Scottish history evolved within the walls and on the battlefields at the foot of this fortress. We toured the interior and discovered one of the best renovated castles in the world. Stirling has been repaired to look as it did 500 years ago in its glory days. Inside costumed guides in character welcome you and explain their occupation; Ladies in waiting, chamberlains, cooks and Lords. The rooms likewise are boasting fresh coats of paint from floor to ceiling. It is a veritable time machine where you forget for a moment the century you are living in. 

 

Sunday was a day that was nicely divided in two halves. In the morning many of the women on our tour were eager to enter the grounds of Balmoral Castle for a walk about. This estate was a favorite of the late Queen Elizabeth II. In fact she had died there just last year. The appearance of the grounds and gardens, the exterior and grand ballroom had the ring of Downton Abbey. 

 

The excitement for the day increased for the men (and golfers) on our tour as we arrived at Saint Andrews. Here we were treated to a personal tour of the famous ‘Old Course’, the birthplace of golf. We strolled along the links and were able to cross the famous 17th and 18th hole. Our local guide regaled us with stories and legends that had even the non-golfers amused. 

 

St. Andrews lies along the coast of the Firth of Forth, the estuary that runs into the North Sea. This was the setting of the iconic film ‘Chariots of Fire’. One of the joys of my life is ruining with my three sons and now grandchildren. What a thrill to behold the sandy shore where the famous 1924 Olympic British team trained. In my imagination I could hear the sonorous sounds of the film score and see the smiles on the white clad athletes running along the surf. 

 

Our final two days and nights were spent in Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland. It’s nickname is, “Old Reekie” on account of the coal smoke that filled the air in the 18th - 19th century. Although coal is no longer in the air, the soot remains on many of its buildings and makes for a dirty, smudged and ragged look.

 

Our coach parked at the base of Edinburgh Castle and our group climbed the grade until we entered its forecourt. Here we discovered the entire city was preparing for the upcoming, “Royal Week”. The newly crowned King Charles and Queen Camila were coming to town. Flags and bunting adorned lampposts and hung high across the streets. There was a festive feel in the air, filled with anticipation.

 

The Royal Mile is the street that runs the length of the city and connects two imposing structures at either end; the Castle to the west and Holyrood Palace on the east. In the middle of the Royal Mile stands St. Giles Cathedral. This was the site where the newly minted king was to receive his benefactions from the Scottish realm. Fortunately it was open and we were able to view where Queen Elizabeth II lay in state just one year prior. Much to our delight a Norwegian youth orchestra was setting up in the nave for a concert. Many us stood and listened as these very talented young people played and sang their repertoire. They concluded with a moving rendition of the Scottish favorite, ‘Auld Lang Syne’. 

 

Our afternoon was open and the group was free to wander along the Royal Mile and its many shops, museums, or eating and drinking establishments. There were numerous stores that offered colorful tartans and kilts, tams and scarves. Not a few of us found reason to add these items of clothing to our wardrobes. Some forty years ago I bought a Harris tweed jacket that I wore out over the decades. I recall it was what I was wearing when our now 38 year old son was born! Now that Johan has a baby of his own it was fitting to purchase another. 

 

 

The weather throughout our eleven days in Ireland and Scotland were atypical. We had heard about their rain, mist and fog. We had only sun and blue skies! On our final afternoon, though, we were gifted with an atmospheric drizzle that made the streets of Edinburgh glisten from a bygone era. Dodging the rain drops a few of us dodged into a classic bar and sat in a booth where we warmed with some Scottish spirits. The bartender actually had a block of ice from which he shaved off slices for our handcrafted cocktails. We half expected Sir Walter Scott to slide in next to us and join our conversation and regale us with some notions and potions of his own.

 

That night we gathered in an ancient pub for our farewell dinner. There we hailed our guide, Stephen, for a tour well done and toasts to all for a lovely time together. As the night came to a close the sound of bagpipes could be heard wafting up from the street below. It was a final blessing to our journeys in this land of blessings.