Meeting at the intersection of faith and history.
Prague - July, 2023
Prague, where have you been? Or more honestly, ‘Where have I been?’ That is the feeling I had when we entered this most charming city last week. Like a hidden treasure that was not quite lost, but now I had found.
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We made our visit to this medieval city by train from Berlin in July of 2024. It is only four hours away by rail but light years apart from most cities in Europe. On account of the fickleness of fate the buildings and squares of Prague are mostly intact from the 17th century and earlier. Where other cities have had to rebuild after last century’s World Wars, Prague need only refresh and maintain their infrastructure. It was like walking into a fairytale land replete with turreted castles and towering clocktowers.
We picked a hotel in the center of the city called the Golden Crown. Our room was on the fourth floor with a corner view. Looking out our many windows we spied an amazing sculpture below. Made of dazzling chrome, it was an enormous bust of the famous son of Prague, Franz Kafka. Inspired by Kafka’s absurdist novels cross sections of his sculpted head rotated and spun in different directions. The square in which it stood drew admiring crowds, day and night, gawking at the wizardry of the piece.
Taking our concierge’s suggestions we hopped on a vintage street car and headed across the river adn up to the Castle Hill. Looking out the windows at the passing urban scenery was like touring a movie set. Later we discovered tat Prague is a foveate set for films, including Schindler's List, 007, , and many more. We alighted at the top of the hill for a majestic gaze of the entire Old Town below. Pinching ourselves at the vista we walked down the cobbled streets to a square where an open market was just concluding. Sarah purchased several wallet-size pieces of cheese while I befriended the local wine merchant.
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Prague Train Station
Continuing downward we came upon the world famous Charles Bridge. This stone structure has been chronicled and featured in so many novels and books that I have read. It was like walking on holy ground. We arrived just before sunset and the lighting created long majestic shadows from the many statures that line this bridge and make it famous. The slow moving Viltava River moved languidly below, dotted with peddle boats and its waving occupants.
Fortuitously, we found an overlook after we crossed the bridge. Sitting down we soaked in the moment and our twilight surroundings. It turns out we had ensconced in the shadow of another sculpture. This one was in honor of the great Czech composer, BedÅ™ich Smetana. He composed the brilliant and romantic symphonic poem, ‘The Maldau’, inspired by the beautiful river before us. I have added a link here so you can take this musical journey by Smetana.
By now we were hungry and let our feet follow our stomach’s melody. As a tram passed by we noticed a sign announcing a restaurant in the dim dusk light. We entered and found ourselves ushered into a courtyard garden. We were delighted that this establishment was a local brewery with fresh pilsners and lagers. (Just west of Prague is the eponymous town of Pilsen; the original home of beer.) We enjoyed a couple of steins as well as their authentic Bohemian cuisine. We shared a goulash that celebrated the piquancy of paprika. Its redolent color and aroma were arresting. We also shared a classic Wiener schnitzel accompanied with a slice of lemon and onion laced potato salad. We did not want to leave!
In the morning, as is my costume, we sought out a ‘third wave’ coffee shop. (I’ll fill you in on this creative movement in a forthcoming blog.) Just around the corner from our hotel was the charming IPPI coffee shop. It’s interior was a lemony yellow with off gray accents in its chairs and tables. We sat down for a cappuccino and requisite croissant as we scoped out our day.
Prague is super people friendly and we wond our way through the winding streets and lanes to the Old Town area. Along the way we popped into numerous shops and ogled at their offerings. A few art supplies, books and gifts found their ways into our daypacks. In the center of the Old Town Square stands yet another statue, this one enormous and heralding the pre-Reformation hero and martyr, Jan Hus. One can easily become dizzy from turning in circles to take in all the buildings that surround this square. There are proud steeples, chiming clock towers, frescoed town halls, and gilded windows.
A half dozen blocks north landed us in the Jewish Quarter. This is one of the oldest and best preserved ‘ghettoes’ in Europe. A center of medieval Judaism, the neighborhood contains multiple synagogues and cemeteries. Tragically, few Jews remain today in modern Czechia on account of its antisemitic legacy. However, Prague is the origin of the mythical beast, Golem, whose spirit still roams the streets today to defend its Hebrew heritage on display with poster pictures of the hostages that still remain in Gaza.
Prior to hopping onto the train for our return trip to Berlin we stopped for a bite to eat at the Bjukitchen bistro. This hip restaurant served a variety of vegetable dishes, including our favorite; roasted eggplant. Sitting squeezed together in the brightly lit dining area were both young students and Vaclav Havel lookalikes. We hated to leave, so I purchased a modern ceramic coffee cup in which to carry our memories home.
A return is certain. If you are interested, we are leading a Tour to Bohemian Europe in October, 2025. More information here.