Norway - July, 2022

There is a certain vibe when one travels in Norway. I call it ‘The Nor-Way’. It is a mix of urban elegance and remote ruggedness. We experienced both on our recent trip to this Scandinavian country in July, 2022. 

We arrived at Gardemoen airport early and took the express train into the capitol city, Oslo. We had in hand a list of recommended cafes and restaurants from our son, Stephan, who had stayed in Oslo just prior to the pandemic. Our first stop was at the Åpent Bakery, a five minute walk from the Central Train Station.  Let me confess that our family has a love affair with bakeries. Whether it is because our immigrant grandparents were wheat farmers in southern Minnesota or my mother taught her five children how to bake bread every Saturday morning, I cannot say. But handcrafted dough baked to a golden color is our passion! 

We sat outside with steaming hot cups of coffee and a pair of cardamon rolls. It is a fascinating connection that Scandinavians have with cardamon. This middle-eastern spice was imported by the trading prowess of the Viking sailors of the tenth century! Ours were the quintessential knotted rolls crusted with pearl sugar on top. They were a welcome respite on our day of arrival.

Fortified by the bakery we walked a few blocks to the ultra modern Opera House on the Oslo fjord. This dazzling white marble edifice sits like a towering glacier sliding into the harbor. It invites foot traffic and hundreds of pedestrians were walking up and down its graceful white concourse admiring views of the city. Just behind the Opera House is the brand new Munch Museum. We had tickets for a 12:00 entrance and walked into this 13 story glass and steel rectangle. Edvard Munch is best know for his evocative picture called ‘The Scream’. This iconic work, along with his hundreds of other sketches and paintings, adorn the walls of the spacious galleries. 

We returned to the airport train station where we collected our luggage and bordered another train to northern Norway. All along the 2 hour journey we saw picture postcard views. We glided noiselessly through a valley that passed Lillehammer, site of the 1994 Winter Olympics. Outside our windows was a viridian green lake bordered by towering pine forests. One could imagine trolls hiding behind trunks for a glimpse of us passing them by. 

We arrived at the town of Ringebu where we were greeted by friends who drove us further up into the mountains to our quaint cabin. It was built of hewn logs with a grass roof and fieldstone fireplace. We were traveling to this remote region to celebrate a destination-wedding of friends of our son, Stephan. It was held in a stone chapel that could have been from a scene in Henrik Ibsen’s play, ‘Peer Gynt’. 

This particular region was nearby Rondane National Park , one of Norway’s oldest and  boasts wild reindeer. Every day we hiked and reveled in the stunning beauty of the rugged terrain. The birch trees were stunted by the massive amounts of winter snow. They were adorned by wisps of moss and lichen patches. The footing was sometimes hazardous with a mix of rocks and spongy bogs. This particular week was windy and cool and we were glad for the layers we added to our bodies. 

The wedding fare that followed the ceremony featured the heritage of Norway. There were preparations of smoked meats including moose, reindeer and even musk ox. Assorted fish from salmon to sardines, herring and trout. A fun ritual at the wedding reception was celebrated. When guests stomped their feet on the floor, the wedding couple were obliged to kiss; under the table! When guests banged their fists upon the table the couple was required to stand together atop a chair and kiss. Taking place just after the Summer Solstice it was past 11:00pm before we had any notion is was evening. There was dancing, toasts and a jolly time of merriment. 

Even in this fairly remote region there was an abundance of Norwegians of all ages. We saw families hiking and parents and children equally strapped in to their individual backpacks. Many senior citizens were flouting their age by walking or mountain biking along dedicated paths. And often as we crossed over the hilly terrain we heard the gentle tinkling of bells and looked up to see a heard of sheep crossing the road ahead. 

When we packed up on our final day we were sorry to leave this verdant and mountainous paradise. You could feel the bright blueness of the sky and smell the distant ridges of pine forests. Our bodies and souls were stimulated and refreshed. We were glad to encounter the Nor-Way!