Jewish Berlin

A city of shadows and phoenix light.

Whether one is religious or not, the legacy of Judaism and Europe is astounding. For nearly two thousand years Jews have made their home somewhere within this enormous continent. They have made it their home, but rarely have they been welcome. This is no more true than in the cities of Berlin and Prague.

This summer, July - 2024 Sarah and I visited these two middle European cities. There we had the opportunity to learn and appreciate the resiliency of generations upon generations of Jewish people. To be resilient was not their choice but it became their calling. Against all odds, and with a nod towards the divine, Jews in Europe have created a legacy that ranks among the wonders of the world.

Fortunately today, there are an increasing number of memorials and markers that help preserve and interpret the history of Judaism in Europe. This summer we were struck by the keen balance between the lachrymose history of Judaism (antisemitism and the holocaust) and the ordinariness and exemplary history of Judaism. Perhaps no place does this better than the modern Jewish Museum Berlin.

This museum, designed by the multitalented, David Libeskind, is situated in the heart of Berlin. This city is infamous for being the capital of Hitler’s Nazi Germany. Berlin was the headquarters of the Gestapo and numerous other heinous organizations which systematically persecuted and liquidated over 6 million Jews. This same city is now the home of a world class museum that tells the candid and compelling story of Judaism.

Architect Libeskind was intentional in every aspect of design. Form follows function from the start. Your feet and eyes are immediately put on alert as there are no right angles on any surface and many of the initial floors are sloped. There is a physical disorientation that enables your senses to be open to the many positive contributions and ordinary lives of Germany’s resident aliens.

The first exhibit you encounter is called Torah. Here you walk through interactive displays that captures the heart and soul of Judaism. It is a religion that celebrates the words and wisdom of a creator G-d who loves the world. From there you are immersed into this movement that dates back 4,000 years shaped by literacy, learning and listening to the living voice of Yahweh.

From this foundation there are exhibits that represent the rich variety and ordinariness of Jews throughout Europe but

especially Germany and Berlin. Alongside the citizens of Germany, but rarely afforded citizenship themselves, you

discover the expanding repertoire of Jewish occupations and contributions. I was struck by the energy and joy

conveyed by families and individuals who were German Jews. Some recognizable names are Mendelssohn, Einstein,

Otto Klemperer, Bruno Walter and Kurt Weill. But there were thousands more who worked to put bread on the table

and on Friday evenings gathered with family to give thanks to G-d.

As one descends to the first floor you enter a wing called, “Catastrophe’. From here you begin to watch the shadow of

antisemitism fall over the German nation in the 1930’s. The exhibits moves through the tragic years from 1933 - 1945

but do not dwell on what a proper Holocaust Museum features. The Jewish Museum Berlin does not shy away from

the Shoa. Rather it puts in perspective of the bigger picture of four millennia of Jewish culture. If you ever have the

chance to visit Berlin, make sure you make time to visit this museum. Entrance is free and the two hours it may take

walk through the two floors will enlighten you and remain a book mark in your soul.

In Berlin one need not go only to museums in order to understand Judaism and Germany. The whole city is a type of open air museum. The city government has adeptly and wisely encouraged memorials to flourish in the city-scape. Poignant monuments and plaques adorn buildings and parks throughout. The massive Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe near to the Brandenburg Gate is the largest.

While walking the streets of Berlin it is easy to marvel at the stunning architecture that adorns the city. But it is equally important to cast your gaze upon the pavement. In front of many buildings the are 4 inch square brass markers. Engraved on each Stolperstein - ‘Stumbling Stone’ is the name, date of deportation and location of death of the former resident of the noted building. It is humbling to bend down to read the information and then reflect on the experience for these individuals.

Not all memorials signify a tragedy. Some are hopeful as in the plaque that signaled the home of the world’s first female Rabbi, Regina Jonas. There are also restaurants, coffee shops and schools that draw your attention of the significant people who spent time there.

The Otto Weidt Workshop for the Blind Museum is one of the most inspiring places we visited during our stay in Berlin. It is located in one of the small courtyards in the Hackescher Market neighborhood. Entrance is free and on the second floor and contains only five long rooms. It is the original brush and broom workshop where the owner, Otto Weidt. He himself was visually impaired and employed blind and deaf Jews in the 1940’s, thus saving them from the Nazi roundups. His remarkable courage was recognized as a ‘Righteous Among the Nations’ by Israel in the 1950’s.

The once robust population of 160,000 Jews in the early 1930’s almost vanished by 1945. A slow trickle of Jews are now returning to Berlin. They are part of a Phoenix-like movement that will see both the scars and the redemption of a conflicted city. The sights listed above are but a small sample of the encouraging healing and reckoning that is taking place in Berlin. A visit is not complete without visiting at least one memorial or museum which heralds the people and power of this place.

'Fallen Leaves' instalation

Berlin - July, 2024

Ten thousand uniuely welded faces from heavy iron plates. Created by the Israeli artist, Menashe Kadishman, vistors are invited to walk on the instalation.