Jerusalem is a city like no other. It dates back 4,000 being first mentioned in the book of Genesis. The holy city of the 3 Abrahamic faiths, it boasts a culinary and cultural scene that blesses your soul! 

​

A fine place to start is just west of the Jaffa Gate in the City Center neighborhood. It is easily accessed by the quiet and efficient light rail. You can get off at the City Hall stop and walk and walk up Jaffa Street one block to Uzi Hasson Street and turn left. 

 

If you walk from the west side of Mamilla Mall cross over King Shlomo Street and head up Rehov Ben Sira Street. Then veer towards the right on     Shlomziyon Hamalka street. As you walk up the slope take in the many shops that invite window shopping or a walk inside. There are many galleries that exhibit both modern and classic works including Max Lieberman and Marc Chagall.

 

A particularly wonderful eatery to try is Nadi You find it as you wonder down a bohemian alley that features students sitting with their laptops and a shot of espresso. If the weather permits you can sit outside under umbrellas or in the sun at Nadi’s. The menu boasts an amazing selection of middle eastern fare. Recommend is the Sadan. It features an array of sauces, dips and spices to enhance your baked goods and eggs. They also have wonderful salads and an array of beverages. If you want a unique and flavorful drink try the Sahlap. It is served with cinnamon and toasted coconut flakes atop. It warms and restores your spirit.

 

Another delightful option is Kadosh. A French style bakery, it sits along   Queen Shlomziyon St 6. As one would expect here you can find a wide selection of baked goods, including raisin wheels and flaky croissants. They serve sandwiches and soups that are colorful and healthy. The staff is friendly and watch over your every need.

 

Among the treasures of Queen Shlomziyon Street is the ceramic gallery and workshop of Arman Darian at number 12 - Mr. Arman is a world famous artist who modestly displays framed letters from Presidents and business moguls alike thanking him for his designs. If you are interested in purchasing one of his many creations don’t be surprised if you are offed an espresso and a seat by his desk. Mr Arman is Armenian and carries on that countries ancient and unique ceramic culture. For the past 40 years he has been decorating homes and public spaces in Jerusalem.

He alone has been commissioned to make public  and the towering mihrab at the Jerusalem Museum of Islamic Art, as well as the medieval map of the world near City Hall.

 

For a relaxed hideaway head for Tmol Shilshom - Tucked away in a back alley known by locals, climb upstairs to a library of libations and vegetarian delights. Situated on the second floor of a row of apartments it has a feeling of the Swiss Family Robinson mashed up with Hogwarts. Book lined shelves and chandeliers create an intimate setting for an expansive menu. 

 

Further down Jaffa Street, or two stops on the light rail is a treasure not to miss is the eponymous Mahaneh Yehudah Market. - This is an old fashioned sook that features everything under the sun. Vats of colorful olives, rows of challah bread and whole wheat loaves fresh from the oven. Vendors hawking their fresh produce with a sing song chant attract passerby's. It runs for two blocks of arcaded stalls that is especially vibrant on Shabbat morning. 

 

For a pick-me-up head back down to 78 Jaffa Street and you will find You Need Coffee This 3rd wave coffee shop welcomes visitors with a coffee roaster emitting the delightful aroma of coffee. With more than two dozen single origin beans in the offing, take your time to make a choice and have them grind it for a hand crafted pour-over. 

 

A larger venue is the Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf - further down at 34 Jaffa Street. They have beans for sale and offer a wide array of Danish and lunch items. Put in an order for a cappuccino or latte and sit at the window and watch the wonderful array of people walk by. Don’t be surprised to see a Hasidic mother who is pregnant pushing a stroller with one hand and holding onto a toddler with the other. A group of olive drab soldiers touting their automatic rifles and prayer tassels dangling from their shirts. 

 

This area of downtown Jerusalem is easy to access and presents the vibrant creativity of Israel. A few hours in Ben Yehuda and you will be inspired for the week.