This January, we led a group of 24 to walk the footsteps of Jesus in Israel. We began our preparation in 2020, saying, ‘Next year in Jerusalem!’ But after two postponements on account of Covid, we started to feel like Moses wandering in the wilderness!

 

This was our 9th tour of the Holy Land and it continues to be our favorite tour. It is the inspiration for our travel company and our motto, ‘Meeting at the intersection of faith and history’. There are 4,000 years of history and an equal number of stories of faith in this land.

 

We like to begin our tour where Jesus began his ministry, in the north, in Galilee. It is the region where his disciples and our touring people alike, are able to walk together and sense the presence of God in our midst. Galilee is a remarkable area even today. It contains lush jungle-like paths in the Dan valley with the snow capped peaks of Mt. Hermon visible in the distance. And sailing on the Sea of Galilee one can almost picture Jesus walking across the still waters from the far shore.

 

What is remarkable are the ongoing finds that archaeologists continue to unearth. We were invited to explore the newly exposed remains of the city of Magdala on edge of the Sea of Galilee. It was most likely visited by Christ and boasted a population of well over 20,000 in his day.

 

Our group traveled south along the Jordan River to reach the oldest and lowest city in the world; Jericho. Just outside this ancient city is the site where Jesus was baptized. We walked to its shores to be re-affirm our baptism. Some of us desired to have a full immersion experience and waded into the chilly but holy water. As the five of us came out of the water we met a woman dressed in white. She introduced herself as Nadia. She was from the Ukraine and was on a pilgrimage to the Holy Land and desired to be baptized. Having left her war-torn country she sought solace in the waters of this holy place. She too was dunked and came up with the largest smile I have every witnessed. I continue to pray for her and her country.

 

Our time in Jerusalem was filled with blue sky and fair weather. We were able to walk the streets of the Old City and experience its unique contours. It is a walled city and feels like a time travel when you enter its ancient gates. Most meaningful is the time we spent at prayer at the Western Wall. We joined hundreds of others and inserted a written prayer in the crevices of this massive edifice. Later we took off our shoes and ascended the southern steps where Jesus walked with His disciples.  

 

Dialogue is a key way to create intersections of faith and history. One of our friends is Moshe  who along with his brother, Dov, run the Shorashim Shop in the Jewish Quarter.  Moshe invites visitors to pull up a chair and talk about Jewish and Christian perspectives on the Bible and religion. Many in our group remarked that he knows the New Testament better than they do and appreciated his insights. It is always an engaging and friendly discussion that expands one’s understanding of faith. 

 

Another meeting place we like to take groups is the Austrian Hostel in the Muslim Quarter. It is hard to find but well worth the effort. You pass through a gate and walk up two flights of stairs into a garden area. Then as you enter the hostel itself you discover a calming and cozy cafe and it feels like  you are in Vienna. They serve all the typical fare of the Imperial city; apple strudel, Sacher Torte, Coffee with schlag (whipped cream). It is a welcome respite from the stone streets of the Old City.

 

Outside the city we spent time at a sifting project that has only been in existence for eat last ten years or so. We were able to sift through the remains of debris from an ancient site in Jerusalem. Along with other volunteers we were able to help archeologists date and determine the context of the material. One from our group even found a coin from the 2nd century! 

 

We continued our trek way from Jerusalem to the town of Bethlehem. Our bus deposited us just below the Church of the Nativity where remarkably there were no lines to get in. This is one of oldest churches in the world and was built over the believed location of the cave where Jesus was born. It is run by the Orthodox Church and so there are adornments on every surface and elaborate chandlers hanging from every ceiling. A devotional time in an adjacent cave allowed us to sing, ‘O little Town of Bethlehem’ in Bethlehem! 

 

There is another much younger church we like to visit in the town of Jesus’ birth. It is the Christmas Lutheran Church that sits atop the highest point in town. We were told it was closed but when we arrived we met it’s pastor just as he was leaving. Rev. Munther is a Palestinian Christian who for the last 6 years has served in this church. He was kind enough to give us a few minutes of his time and standing in the nave of the church explained what it is like to be among the persecuted. A line that rung out was, “Hope is what you do today.” 

 

A final service was held at the Garden Tomb where we celebrated holy communion and then began our farewells. Later that night half of the group flew home while the other half continued on to Jordan and Egypt. More on that extension in another blog.

 

Sarah and I were fortunate to return to Jerusalem after our two week tours of Israel and Jordan & Egypt. It was time to relax and wander about and discover new people and places. It did not disappoint. I had brought along the newly published book, ‘Nine Quarters of Jerusalem’, by Matthew Teller. It is a well researched book about the residents who live in this complex city. He interviewed many of them just before lockdown and finished it during the pandemic. 

 

I took the book in hand and wandered back into the Old City to see if I could meet some of the people the author mentions. They are not famous but are passionate about their lives and professions. One of my favorites was Mazen who runs the  coffee shop just south of the Damascus Gate. I introduced myself and explained my quest. He was delighted and inscribed his autograph in Arabic on the page that contains his picture in the book. We left his shop warmed by his welcome and the rich sent of coffee in the air.

 

No one got injured during our trip but that did not mean we did not visit a hospital while in Jerusalem. The Hadassah Hospital is one of the largest in the city. And it is the site of the incredible stained glass windows by Marc Chagall. We had a funny time getting there, however. We purchased a bus token as it was a straight shot from our hotel to the hospital. Only problem we stood at the wrong bus station. After standing in the rain for 45 minutes we finally figured it out. Alighting the steps of the correct bus we easily found seats among the locals. And then, after a few minutes, the bus stopped and the driver announced his shift was over. We had to get off and wait for another bus to finish the route. We decided to hail a taxi and stay dry.

 

The adventure was worth it. We obtained an audio guide and entered the chapel over which Chagall created 12 stunning windows of myriad colors. Each window represents one of the twelve tribes of Israel. They are radiant and revelatory. When approached by the Hadassah staff in 1959 to consider making these windows, he responded, “What took you so long? I have yearned to create something for my Jewish people!”

 

Though they are not an ancient artifact, these windows evoke the enduring meaning of the Holy Land. To paraphrase Eugene Peterson, they illuminate the God-colored world we live in. And as well, they are fragile and easily broken. Our eyes are always illumined when we visit Israel/Palestine. It is a remarkable place that hides and reveals so many stories. Including the Greatest Story ever told.