Pizza Crawl - Naples

There are few places in the world that are wed together like pizza and Naples, Italy. This fall, 2023 Sarah and I visited the wedding venue of this culinary couple. Were can truly say, it is a match made in heaven!

We decided to pair our tour of Naples and the Amalfi Coast with or pursuit of pizza. Each day we tried a couple of pizza places to compare and contrast the various flavors and presentations. One of the delightful discoveries is the joy and pride that each shop has in making their

Often as we waited in line the four to five ‘pizzaiolas’ enjoyed each others’ company with hugs and laughs and smiles. Their creations were not a job but a labor of love.

Pizzeria Al 22

Our first stop Pizzeria Al 22 was just a few blocks from our apartment and recommended by our host, Paolo. The short stroll led us to a bustling street where we easily spotted the line outside Al 22. I stepped inside to get a glimpse of the interior and was delighted that the front of the house was occupied by their wood-fired oven. A couple of pizzaiolas were managing the orders by tossing the dough skyward then swathing them with sauce and cheese. Another was pulling and pushing the various pizzas within the oven. It was a finely choreographed activity and I quickly asked for a reservation.

We were fortunate to get a table outside and put in our order for their classic pizza. It came a few minutes later as a full 12 inch pie laden with cheese and basil leaves. With knife and fork I dug in and shared the ample portions with Sarah. It was love at first bite. The outsides were crispy, the center was chewy and the flavors mingled together with savory delight.

A Puteca d’A Pizza

The following day we dedicated ourselves to exploring the historic core of Naples and limit our pizza crawl to this core area. I did some research prior to our arrival and discovered there were literally hundreds of pizza venues across the massive metro area. We were glad to walk to and then walk off our pizza intake!

On Saturday our first stop was A Puteca d’A Pizza. It was a Marinara with the perfect amount of oregano and chew. Their pizzaiola was able to manage the crowd. He juggled and shifted the orders as they were fired at him form his companion.

Gino Sorbillo

Next it was a few blocks away to Gino Sorbillo. This is the blue ribbon winner and most popular in Naples. Having just waited a half hour for the first pizza of the day, I asked the crowd outside Sorbillo how long. An hour or more!

So we walked down the street to their fried pizza operation. Shorter line. So I got a couple of Peroni’s and waited for my Classico: buffalo mozzarella and sauce. It came out like a pillow. The flavor was smoky, nothing like it that I have ever tasted. It was as it looks, massive. Crispy outer with savory and cheesy center. It was filling.

Antica Pizzeria de Matteo

Sunday was the sabbath and we decided to take a pause. We made a day trip to the Amalfi Coast and a change of pace. On Monday we returned to our pizza pursuit. Antica Pizzeria de Matteo. Like other top rated pizzerias there was a wait of about a half hour. While in line in we met people from around the world; Hungarians, Brazilians, Germans and fellow Americans.

Finally we paid our 2 Euros for our marinara ‘wallet’ and looked for a place to stand and eat. The ‘wallet’ is how a typical six inch pie is presented. The round is folded like a half moon and again as a quarter shape. Placed in a wrapper it is easily handled and even easier to consume. Both Sarah and I wished we had bought two!

In 2012 UNESCO declared Neapolitan wood-fired pizza part of the ‘intangible cultural heritage of humanity’. We are grateful to have made it to this cultural and culinary destination. To paraphrase Caesar; We came, We saw, We ate. There was not a wayward bite or disappointing wait. Our memories will long remember the heritage of this heaven on earth experience.